Choosing October Swimming Crab: Check the Batch as Well as the Sex

Swimming crab is also called jiang xie in Wenzhou. When choosing in October, say whether you prefer roe or meat, then check whether the actual batch suits your meal. Sex is only one piece of buying information; price alone cannot decide your preference.

With East China Sea catches landed in Dongtou, Wenzhou, the condition of the actual batch matters more than a date on the calendar. Weight, maturity and freshness tell you more about dinner than the month does.

Ask about this batch, whether you prefer roe or meat

If you prefer roe, ask whether there are females whose roe condition has been checked. If you prefer meat from the legs and body, check meat fullness in either sex. The month offers a selection clue; it cannot replace inspection of the batch.

Neither “female” nor “October” guarantees a full shell of roe. Crabs differ in size and maturity. Ask about the batch: how well developed is the roe in the females, and how well filled are the males? Those questions are more useful than simply asking which sex is better.

Look underneath, then compare weight

The abdominal flap identifies the sex: narrow and triangular in males, broad and rounded in mature females. Once you have checked it, turn your attention to size and condition. Shell colour is no shortcut to flavour.

Compare crabs of a similar size. A crab that feels substantial for its size offers one useful clue. Check for an intact shell and no off smell; with live crabs, look for movement as well. A photograph of the top shell cannot establish freshness or tell you how much roe is inside.

Give the crab one clear role at dinner

Once the batch has been checked, steaming is a simple first dish. Crabs are sent whole and unprepared: scrub them at home and steam until fully cooked. After opening the shell, discard the gills, stomach and other inedible parts. Serve ginger and vinegar separately and taste the crab before reaching for the dipping sauce.

For a meal built around meat and rice, cook cleaned crab pieces with ginger and spring onion. Remove the gills and other inedible parts during preparation, cook thoroughly, and season lightly before adjusting at the end. For two people, rice and a plate of greens can finish the table.

You do not need to memorise a seasonal buying rhyme. Say whether you prefer roe or meat, how many people are eating, and how you plan to cook. That gives the person choosing your crab something useful to work with.

Find the swimming crab and meal boxes available in this batch in Today’s Arrivals.